"Know where to paddle out in the face of incoming waves"
Anyone who has surfed knows what happens when you try to paddle out and yet try to dodge an incoming wave.
Sure, if you are good at turtling(long-board) or duck-diving(short-board) , it might help, but there are better ways to going stubbornly against the white-water.
If you study every break, you will notice that there are troughs and peaks along the entire wave.
The trough is your point of entry to paddle out.
Once you are finally out there, you will appreciate it.
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