Monday, January 19, 2009

What I learnt from surfing #5

"When everyone goes for the wave, probably no one will be able to ride it"

When a wave comes, and everyone tries to catch it, there are usually two possibilites :

(1) The big alpha guy quickly paddles closer to the peak and catches it and tells everyone to screw off. But big alpha guy probably didn't see another big alpha farther down the line-up and might criss-cross with him.
(2) Everyone stares at each other to see if someone is taking off soon and in the end , no one catches it .

Therefore, usually when a good wave comes, it's a good idea to take turns

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