Surfing is primarily two camps : shortboarding and longboarding , and I have comed to like shortboarding now, ever since transferring to it almost a year ago.
Here are my reasons why I primarily focus on shortboard surfing :
(1) Way more challenging
(2) Understand the wave conditions better and its dynamics. Shortboarders can only catch very specific types of wave peaks. Blink and you miss it.
(3) It is extremely competitive to catch a wave because there are usually a lot of other shortboarders out there for that one dam good peak
(4) Forces you to stay very fit, agile and flexible
(5) Learn to chill and relax despite how chaotic the external conditions are. Stay in the moment
(6) When you actually do catch a good ride, you APPRECIATE the moment truly
(7) When waiting and judging for waves, it is a good meditative moment that can feel like forever.
Now, longboarding still has its merits for me :
(1) Chill and relaxing when you want to catch easy waves
(2) Good for socializing because of (1) . Everyone is almost completely silent in the shortboard line-up
(3) If you want to practice walking up and down the board, it is a weird but fulfilling experience
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment