Monday, January 19, 2009

Stuff I learnt from Surfing #4

"Where everyone congregates to catch the wave is not necessarily where it peaks"

This is especially true for shortboarding, because when everyone sees a good wave comes in, most of the time everyone starts paddling out, but is the peak definitely out there?

Not necessarily, the wave might actually break farther in. So if you trust your own instincts and experience or pure luck or laziness, you might be able to catch it on the inside while the ones who earnestly paddled all the way will be sorely disappointed.

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